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Saturday 2004-05-08 - Damascus, Syria
We’re there, but we’re not in yet!
We’re at the airport of Damascus. Three in the afternoon, a slight delay but nothing dramatic. Arranging the group visa on arrival isn’t the problem … the problem is we need someone from the local agency to come pick us up with a letter of invitation — and he isn’t there. Marie Josee, our tour companion, can’t go outside to see if he’s there, and he can’t know we’re here if he’s waiting outside. Ultimately, she manages to call him: he’s in the car on the way to the airport (he says). Finally, he arrives (it’s quite a way to the airport): he had our old travel scheme (arrival late at night), not the new scheme with arrival in the afternoon.
While waiting, we amuse ourselves looking at other passengers arriving. The variety is enormous, from plain-looking demurely-dressed ordinary people, to very modern-looking young people in tight-fitting fashionable clothes, to chique-looking Arab businessmen in full regalia. As we will find out later, they afford us a preview of the kaleidoscopic diversity seen on the streets of Damascus.
Finally, after three hours, we’re in. Then we find our luggage and one of our suitcases has been forced open. It’s not clear if anything’s missing, but the suitcase itself is damaged. More waiting time, to get a declaration; they can look later whether anything is actually missing. Half an hour’s ride to the city, and then we finally arrive in our hotel where we’re welcomed with a nice cup of tea.
Sunday 2004-05-09 - Damascus, Syria
Relaxing in the mosque
After a nice breakfast in the hotel we (two travel mates and me) first walk to Martyr’s Square where there is a money changer’s office — which turns out to be closed. We decide to go to the old city first, after the “advance” we got last night we still have enough cash for a drink and entrance into the Mosque. When we cross the street, a young man coming from the other side nods at us, and says: “Welcome!” — a nice sign of how friendly people are here in Damascus.
The old town isn’t far, and we get in at the Souk entrance; the Souk al-Hamidiyeh reminds me of the big bazaar in Istanbul, with its high vaulted streets, and endless shops along them. When we get out at the other end, skipping all the side streets for now, we see the Umayadd Mosque before us, through remnants of what looks like an old Greek temple, Greek architecture, anyway. Entrance to the Mosque is 50 Syrian pounds, and us women get a hooded robe (freshly washed and ironed) loaned to us for free. We visit the shrine first; people get very emotional there, moan, and even cry. We see some drying their tears when they get out, and whole families sitting together on the floor in the front room, eating apples, chatting, relaxing.
When we get to the mosque proper, we find same relaxed atmosphere. The inner plaza is very big, beautiful with lots of marble, and at various places people sit around, resting and enjoying the place. Inside the prayer hall this continues. Everyone mixes (no strict separation between men and women here, families sit together). Near the shrine of Prophet Yahia (St. John the Baptist) a group of women sit together, listening to what a mullah is telling them. A woman walks round and hands out sugared almonds (delicious!); some people try to chat with us. We end up staying here a long time, a wonderful experience. We see many other interesting things today but this is definitely the best.
Everywhere, people are very friendly and helpful. We all agree: this is a very, very nice city to be in — and one to come back to. And a great city to start our 65-day trip across Asia from.
Monday 2004-05-10 - Damascus, Syria
Travel blogging for the first time
We walk via a medressa (with computer-cataloged public library) and another mosque (Shi’ite, all glitter, men and women separated, but within that framework still very relaxed) to the Christian quarter of Damascus where we have a nice early lunch with a cup of yellow lentil soup.
From there we go to the Al-Azem palace where we see the exhibits and have a nice cup of Turkish coffee in the pleasant courtyard. Then we go to Jabri House (Beit Jabri), an 18th-century house, renovated and turned into a restaurant; in the corner of the courtyard is an Internet cafe. We want to try whether we can really email from Syria, since our tour companion had told us that was not possible — but I didn’t quite believe her.
It turns out that the friendly manager of the Jabri House Internet cafe we spoke to yesterday was right — it’s no problem to use email: so for the first time I use my system to email to my travel blog — and it all works! I treat my companions to a round of drinks (freshly pressed juices) in the pleasant courtyard. I’m so happy that it all actually works now!
Old traditions still alive
Behind the Umayadd Mosque there is a pleasant cafe where on some evenings a traditional story teller comes to tell a few stories. We’re lucky: he’s here tonight. Of course we don’t understand a word of what he’s saying but that doesn’t matter. It’s quite amusing to watch and listen to — obviously first the setting of the scene, then the meat of the story, followed by the climax. He’s sitting there with his story book, a red fez on his head, glasses on his nose, a sword he’s gesturing with at times, and every one present is captivated. Of course, if you can understand it’s even funnier: two young men sitting at the window explode in giggles at times and are almost as amusing as the story teller himself. Interesting to note though how it’s not just tourists but also locals who come here to listen to him. It’s a great end to our stay in Damascus.
Tuesday 2004-05-11 - Damascus - Palmyra, Syria
We’re moving!
Today, we really start moving across Asia. Leaving at eight, we first have to get out of the city: now we see how big Damascus, with a population of 3.5 million inhabitants, really is.
When we’re finally out, we’re in the desert. Mostly barren mountains on our left, an almost flat plain on the right. Sparse plants, sometimes little clumps of bright-red poppies along the road side, purple thistles, other flowers that I don’t recognize. Sometimes small flocks of sheep and some goats, with the herder often often seated on the back of a donkey. Some people sleep on the bus — I almost never do and I love desert landscapes! Of course, as is often the case, when we stop for a drink (‘Bagdad Cafe’) the flowers I wanted to take a picture of are nowhere in sight.
Before noon we’re in Palmyra, already seeing some of the temple ruins before we enter.
Tuesday 2004-05-11 - Palmyra, Syria
Impressive Romans
After lunch with (again) a cup of lentil soup we walk to the ruins of the Roman city of Palmyra. Enormously impressive, more so than even the Acropolis in Athens, we think. Not only is it visible that here was an enormous city here in Roman times (600,000 people lived here in the first century) but along the big avenue where a surprising number of columns are still standing we also see remnants of the sewer system that make it clear what an enormous feat of engineering this city was.
Apart from the museum (in the big temple of Bel) which happens to be closed when we get there, entry to the whole site is free, and we roam around for several hours. Of course, I take lot of pictures as well!
Wednesday 2004-05-12 - Krak des Chevaliers, Syria
Largest castle I’ve ever seen
On the way to Aleppo our first stop is at Krak des Chevaliers: An enormous castle built by the crusaders in 1110 on the spot of an older fort occupied by a garrison of Kurd troops. It’s hardly imaginable such a stronghold was ever taken, and indeed two sieges in 1163 and 1172 were fought off. However, a century later, in 1271 the Mamelukes came with much improved siege equipment and succeeded in taking the stronghold. Later, locals lived for many years in the castle which is now being restored again. One can roam around for quite some time through stables, storage areas, chapel, large rooms, and climb the command tower to oversee it all. On a clear day one should be able to see the Mediterranean from here — but alas not today.
Wednesday 2004-05-12 - Hama, Syria
Round and round
Our next (unscheduled but much appreciated) stop is at Hama to see the norias. These impressive waterwheels were built for both irrigation and water mains for the city via aqueducts, all powered by the water itself. When more and more water was held up outside for irrigation and didn’t reach the city any more and the norias fell into disrepair, the government realized this was bad for tourism, an important source of income here. Holding water was forbidden, and now 17 of the original 30 norias are restored to their full glory and again are pumping water into the city, groaning and splashing - I’m sorry I didn’t take a tape recorder! A friendly guard even lets us into the park for free (normally an entrance fee is required for the park) so we can walk a bit farther to see another group of norias.
Thursday 2004-05-13 - Aleppo, Syria
“In my next life I wish to be your hat”
The Syrians have a wonderful gentle kind of humor, of which we had a nice sample before at Krak des Chevaliers: Entrance fee is 150 Syrian pounds for foreigners, 15 for Syrians and 10 for students. After Carla and I paid our 150, Thom followed and said: “I’m Syrian.” “That’s 15 dollars, sir” was the immediate reply.
Today we roam around the very extensive Souk of Aleppo (much nicer than that of Damascus, with many very old vaults over the streets and khans — storage places — and caravanserais); it couldn’t be any closer since our pleasant hotel is right in the middle of the souk. Here we encounter more samples of Syrian humor. Many traders try a little ruse to talk you into their store but it’s all a game and they readily admit it’s just a trick to get you inside: “You have to try something to sell something” one apologizes laughing. What’s amazing is how many Syrians here speak some Dutch, or even have a portrait of our queen in their store: another conversation piece of course to get you inside. Farther on in the main street we chat with a small group of young men; one of them looks at my hat and tells me: “In my next life I wish to be your hat.”
Friday 2004-05-14 - Aleppo, Syria
Tea on the square
Today is Friday, so all Islamic stores will be closed, including most of the Souk. We go to Aleppo’s Armenian (Al-Jdeida) quarter instead where we visit a few old merchant’s houses. One, Sissi House (Beit Sissi), lovingly restored with as much as possible of the original interior, is now a bar and restaurant; the other, Beit Wakil, is beautifully restored but somewhat less authentically; this is now a four-star hotel. Here we can also see the cellars, part of an old system of underground passages which connected all the houses and ended up below the citadel where people could find safety when the city was attacked. In both houses, visitors are often welcome to look around, even if they are not guests. It’s very interesting to see such old (and rich) houses with their pleasant courtyards.
Afterwards we end up at a little square - the three of us would like some tea. Thom goes off to find some while Carla and I sit down but he returns without having found anything. Just at that moment we see a man serving some tea to three men across from us; a little wave and he comes to us: yes, he sells tea! So here we sit in the shade of some trees on a little bench, sipping our tea and watching the comings and goings across the square at the bakery: people in a crush in front of the hole-in-the-wall store, getting piles of piping-hot round flat bread which is then immediately spread out on benches and fences to cool off before repacking it and taking it home.
City on a hill
After lunch with a very big glass of freshly-squeezed juice, we go to the Citadel, finding the entrance only after walking nearly all the way around — which gives us a good impression of the enormous size of this stronghold built on a natural hill. Much of it is still in rubble but parts are restored, such as the throne room; also two small mosques are restored now, as well as some other small buildings. Restoration is still in full swing though and well done, in a way that one can also see the difference between the old remains and newer additions to walls to complete the structures. From the top and the walls one also has a beautiful view over the city of Aleppo.
