navigate:
Friday 2004-05-21 - Silvan, Turkey
Peek into the middle ages
Today is a travel day: we go to Van. The landscape upon leaving Diyarbakır is getting more and more mountainous, and we seem to be climbing gradually as well. The mountains are beautiful, and there are many spring flowers — sitting in the bus and looking out is no punishment.
Just after Silvan I notice some holes in the rocks high up in the mountains on the left just when others shout “stop” for a picture of the beautiful view over the valley on the right. I walk resolutely back to get the holes in the rocks back into view and to take a picture. It turns out my hunch was right: these were rock dwellings, dating back to the middle ages. A few of us walk all the way up to them and manage to look inside one of the holes but (as expected) they’re completely bare. Building rock dwellings so high up inside a steep mountain side must have been a form of defense, I think — though simpler than building a citadel on top of a mountain. Maybe they were farmers rather than city dwellers here.
Somewhat farther on there is a big dam on the left of the road; on the right is a large bridge with one very high arch, built in 1147; it’s well-preserved: you can walk over it (no other traffic allowed though). The size of the bridge is impressive, and it has some nice decorations in the stonework as well. The water below is a beautiful blue-green, cows are drinking and bathing in the water below. We spend quite a bit of time enjoying the view here, before we go on to Van, passing over the highest mountain pass in Turkey, Kuskunkıran, at 2235 m high. The view of the Lake of Van we soon get is stunning: blue-green water, surrounded on all sides with snow-capped mountain ranges.
Friday 2004-05-21 - Van, Turkey
Soup and Internet
When riding into Van we’d spotted an Internet cafe on a corner, just before turning into the street where our hotel is. When we set out to go there though, we find there’s another one right next to the hotel, in the basement of an office building. We do a quick inspection: It’s a nice place, with not just workstations: they also sell books, software, a few small accessories, and drinks. The price is OK, too, but we want to have some dinner first and promise to come back later.
We walk on, looking around for a restaurant, turn right twice in the direction where we suspect restaurants might be and — what a find! We discover a ‘soup salon’: the little restaurant sells nothing but soup, six kinds of soup (with bread, of course), 24 hours a day. Actually, we’re not terribly hungry, but a bowl of soup sounds like just the thing — and you can always take another one if one isn’t enough. There’s no menu of any kind: you just peek in the big soup kettles and point at what you’d like. Thom, Carla and I all have different soups. All deliciuous.
Then it’s back to the Internet cafe: both Thom and I have quite a bit to catch up. By now I’ve given up on learning to use the Turkish keyboards where the Turkish ‘ı’ (‘i’ without a dot) is where we expect the ‘i’ which is somewhere else, somewhere unexpected. It’s much easier to just type and then use Notepad’s search-and-replace to change all the ‘ı’s to ‘i’s and put the occasional intended ‘ı’ back afterwards — it sounds like more work, but it’s actually much faster and reliable.
