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Sunday 2004-05-23 - Doğubayazıt, Turkey
Border town
It’s not far from Van to Doğubayazıt but we go via a beautiful scenic route with spectacular views and over a high pass (the highest we encounter in Turkey); on the way we make a photo stop near a huge lava field near Soğuksu, encrusted with lichen in many different colors.
Doğubayazıt has a typical border town atmosphere - hard to put into words, but unmistakable.
Old glory
In the afternoon we make a trip to Işak Paşa palace, 6 km outside of Doğubayazıt. The palace, of which construction started in 1685, was finished only in 1784. The palace-fortress, on top of a rock with a great view of the surrounding valley (but alas not of nearby Mount Ararat) originally had no less than 366 rooms and was built in five different architectural styles. Partly destroyed by earthquakes, what’s left is well restored now — but it’s the stonework only: nothing is left of any furnishings. Still we roam around quite a while.
From the palace we walk back to the village, first noticing what looks like traces of an old village just below the palace that we think must have serviced the palace: we already noticed some graves near the top of the mountain, a little higher up. Then, as we get gradually lower, we enjoy the beautiful wide landscape. A little surprise: at the edge of town the bus is waiting for us, and we climb in.
Zero Stars
Our hotel in Doğubayazıt used to have two stars, but looking at the sign on the façade we note all stars have been covered up carefully… still, the sheets and towels are clean, and the bathroom works — that’s all that really matters and we’re here for only one night anyway.
