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  Saturday 2004-05-29 - Kermānshāh, Iran

Modern history

While at the Taq-e Bostan site, we meet some unexpected foreign visitors: four Iraqis who are biding their time in Iran (fled “under the fire” as they say) until the situation in Iraq has quieted down; two are from Bagdad, two from Najaf. They’re quite explicit that the situation under Saddam Hussein was bad, but that now, under the Americans it’s still bad.

We chat with them for a few minutes - it’s remarkable how different they are from Iranian men: just as friendly, but very open and direct. When one remarks he hopes to be able to return to Iraq in two months, and I reply “Inshallah!” he says: “You’re my friend!” and gives me a hand — something an Iranian man wouldn’t dare (or even think of) — and Carla makes friends with another man who’s a teacher, like her. Before we leave they have to make pictures of all of us together and each with their newly-made friends.

posted: Sunday 2004-06-06 12:26 UTC history, people